Tankless Hot Water Heater Prices

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Why do I need an installation kit for my Rennai tankless hot water heater?
   I recently ordered a tankless hot water heater (Rennai R35i PLUS). When I picked it up I was informed that I also needed an installation kit that cost half as much as the unit. In my opinion, any required accessory that costs more than 10 percent of any original item should come with the original item and the cost adjusted accordingly. This is a almost a "bait and switch". I might have decided on a different manufacturer if I had known I was going to get hit with a 50% price increase. What does this kit actually do?

   • ANSWER:
     I hope you didnt get a electric unit since this usually requires a service upgrade due to the high amperage

2. QUESTION:
   What is the best tankless hot water heater?
   Quality, and Price combined. What is the best kind? Also any that are just no good, that I should stay away from?

   • ANSWER:
     I bought two Bosch electric tank-less heaters. One a "whole house" size that runs two bathrooms and the kitchen. It did not work when originally installed. It had faulty parts right from the factory. Bosch did pay to have someone repair it (not covered by the warranty) and the parts were free (were covered by the warranty). It took a little convincing to get them to pay for the technician to do the repair but they did. It has since worked flawlessly, for over a year. It will run hot water for 3 sinks at the same time, but if someone is in the shower and another outlet is opened there will be screaming.

     The second heater was Bosch's smallest, and I use it only for the laundry room. It runs the washing machine and the laundry sink. I cannot get "hot" water from the laundry sink, only warm water. I am uncertain as to whether the unit is faulty or that's as good as it can do. I can "live" with it, and prefer not to have another fight with the manufacturer over the repair so I let it go. I imagine that these were the very earliest machines off of the assembly line. I also presume they were made in China or somewhere where quality control is a four letter word.

3. QUESTION:
   Is a tankless water heater worth the investment?
   I was looking into purchasing a tankless hot water heater, in your experience has it been worth the price of changing over?

   • ANSWER:
     I HAVE A TANK LESS AND LOVE IT

     I have a gas Bosch Tank less hot water heater and I have it for 2 yrs and love it… endless hot water…. I ordered this from Lowe’s (special order) and did get an extended warranty… never have used it…. Now even though it is gas it does have a plug in for electricity…. But I have saved like you would not believe….MANY HAVE SAID IF YOU USE LOTS OF HOT WATER… YOU WILL RUN OUT OF HOT WATER…. SO WRONG…. I have let the water run for over 45 min just to see what would happen... still had hot water….
     AND THE BEST PART TAKES UP SO LITTLE SPACE…. Especially living in the east where we have to keep are hot water tanks in the house… on the wall… out of the way
     Yes you need to make sure you get someone that knows what they are doing to install this…At the time the tank was 698.00 with a 10% coupon off… and then when it arrive it had a small minor dent on the front…and did get another 100.00 back from Lowe’s due to this…then to install this .. it took a 5 hrs…because of the pipes required….venting etc… so added on it was an additional 375.00 to get this installed plus the parts…

     YOU asked
     has it been worth the price of changing over

     YES YES and YES if I had to do over would I Yes

     Just remember if you find one at Lowe's you like and some one else has it cheaper Lowe's will match the price plus take 10 % off from that but remember brand to brand model to model

     Good Luck

4. QUESTION:
   what is the cost of a direct oil fired hot water heater?
   I have been looking into a new hot water heater. Tankless won't work. I can find prices on lp and electric but nothing on a direct oil fired. Thanks!

   • ANSWER:
     First, it's called a water heater. If the water was hot, you wouldn't need a water heater.

     An oil fired water heater is not a good choice. If natural gas isn't available, the best choice is LP (propane). Almost no maintenance, more reliable and cheaper to buy.

     If you just have to have oil, do a search for "oil fired domestic boiler"

5. QUESTION:
   Price of tankless hot water heaters?

   • ANSWER:
     You will find that they are around 3 times more expensive than regular water heaters. But, after a few years you will get those dollars back. The cost of using a regular water heater is around a month. Using a tank-less is under a month, plus they last for at least 20 years, versus 7 to 10 years for a regular water heater. If you check with your accountant, there is some type of tax credit that you can get by installing a tank-less water heater. When checking for prices, look at both plumbers and gas companies to give you quotes. They both install them and you may find the gas companies to be cheaper because the plumber has to buy a regulator from the gas company which is very expensive, but if the gas company installs it the cost of the regulator is much less. Good luck.

6. QUESTION:
   Should I goto a tankless water heater?
   I am about to replace my natural gas hot water tank. I am looking at going tankless. priced at about ,000 (for ability to run 2 showers at a time)

   1. how much money in gas would I save?

   2. how easy are they to install?

   3. how well do they heat the water?

   • ANSWER:
     Paul is on target. the temperature rise it provides is key to your satisfaction.
     Also, I do think they make gas ones. If you can install a regular HW heater, you should be able to do one of these, too.

7. QUESTION:
   Should I get a tankless on-demand water heater.?
   I need a new water heater, I don't feel like giving myself a headache to save bucks. What is a good deal for a hot water heater. I will probably install myself to save 0 unless I get some help. What is the payoff on a tankless water heater, i.e., the difference in price versus the savings on a yearly basis (or a similar ratio). I'd like somthing durable; it seems like I'm always replacing water heaters every time I move.
   Lowe's is closer, but I will drive to Home Depot if I think it is worth the trip.

   • ANSWER:
     A standard 40 gal elec. W/H will cost you about 240 buck depending on where you live. A tankless W/H start around 700 and go way up from there. The return is about a year or two depending on usage. Some power companys offer a rebate if you install a tankles and if you own your own home you can claim a rebate on your return. You never run out of hot water but depending on what you get, some have a hard time keeping up with high usage and/or cold ground water temps. The biggest complaint, myself included, is the reliability of tankless W/H's. They tend to require maintenance more often and when they do, it is much harder to service them than regular W/H's. Your going to end up on hold for the 1-800 number and you cant get these parts downtown. If your going to get one I have had better luck with Sosco or Takagis for electric and Bosch or Rheem for gas. Do your homework and get your checkbook ready.

8. QUESTION:
   Help! Think we need to replace electric water heater - tankless vs. regular? Brands you recommend?
   We are trying to pick a water heater to replace our old one. Our hot water currently smells/tastes metallic, the heater we have is 12 yrs old, & the problem has been going on for almost a yr, so I'm thinking the prob. is more than just the anode rod at this point. Any thoughts on the contrary?

   Our cold water also sometimes smells metallic. Most of the time it's just when the hot water's "warming up" & coming out cold at 1st, but I'm worried there may be rust or metal buildup in our pipes now. What to do? How to tell? We tested our h2o, it came back ok - maybe test was bad?

   If we do need to replace it, got any input on tankless vs. regular electric? We have no access to gas. Have heard tankless can get buildup faster. I know w/tankless, w/out electricity we'd have no hot water, but that is ok. We like the space & electric conservation. I've been researching & think we could afford one, prices have dropped.

   What brands - tankless or regular - would you recommend?

   Thanks!
   We'd also be taking out the old one and installing the new one ourselves, so any advice on that would also be appreciated!
   We do have enough amps, that I do know. I think it's 200, but whatever the case it is something my husband checked before we started shopping for one, in case we needed to rule the tankless out.
   Luc, thank you so much, that is very sweet, and I may be emailing u!
   As far as how it tastes ... I should clarify - we aren't drinking the hot water from the tap, but you can sort of 'taste' it in the steam from the shower, and, our dishes out of the dishwasher have a metallic taste to them, because of the residue or something I'm guessing. Also, our cold water also has a weird flavor. Like I said, we tested it, but got normal results. So that's even more confusing.

   • ANSWER:
     Tank style would prolly be your best bet.

     The primary differences in hot water heaters/heater warranties is a 'self cleaning' feature,
     the equivalent of an insurance policy,
     number (and material) for anodes,
     heat recovery rate and
     for electrics, upper heating element sheath material (copper v. SS ).

     As long as there IS a cold water inlet dip tube, AFAICT,
     a dip tube is a dip tube.

     Brand name doesn't seem to make much difference when viewing longevity.
     The components (tanks, etc) are prolly the same regardless of model/warranty.

     If one anode is good, two just has to be better? *L*

     Review the heat recovery rates. For the most part, let your wallet be your guide as electrics are way slower than gas.

     A SS sheath theoretically lasts longer than copper.

     Have yall had your water analyzed for the metallic taste problem?

     Edit-
     Tried a second lab?

9. QUESTION:
   How well do tankless water heaters work, and what is the upfront price difference?
   were building a house and i was curious if these things work as well as a tank water heater or if they take forever to warm up, dont get hot, etc. and what the cost difference is from a traditional water heater

   • ANSWER:
     I don't know the upfront price difference, but according to "Energy Star" you'll get the following breakdown over the life of the water heater compared to a "traditional gas storage":

     Gas Condensing Storage: 0/year
     Whole House Gas Tankless: 5/year
     Solar water heater w/ electric backup: 0/year
     Heat Pump Water Heater: 0/year

     Note that no electric options are mentioned. Electric heating is grossly inefficient and costly, tankless or not.

     In addition, if you are eligable, take advantage of the 00 energy tax credit. Now water heaters are included. There may be more local credits and utility rebates that apply.

10. QUESTION:
    How can you cakculate the cost of heating hot water in a domestic household situation?
    I would like to compare natural gas to propane gas to electric water heaters in a way that is understandable to a lay person. I understand that heating water is one of the highest energy costs in a home but how would I compare the price of a tank to a tankless water heater?

    • ANSWER:
      A British Thermal Unit (BTU), is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. Multiply the BTU output of the heating appliance (found on the nameplate) by the number of gallons it holds (also found on the nameplate) and multiply that number by 8.35 (The weight in pounds of one gallon of water) Tankless water heaters are instantaneous, but they have to heat cold water because they don't have any storage capacity.
      You also have to determine the cost of Electricity (sold by the Kwh), propane (Sold by he gallon) and natural gas(sold by the cubic foot) in your area and use those figures to calculate the cost of energy.

11. QUESTION:
    Tankless water heaters for apartments?
    I am considering electric tankless water heaters for each of my 28 2-bedroom 1 bath apartments. What type is recommended? I don't want to recirculate the hot water. The hard water kills the 30-gal tank versions pretty fast plus I am trying to save my residents some money on their electricity bills. I have seen them priced from 350-2000 and would like to get by with as inexpnesive as practical (remember - 28 units lol) without buying junk. Is the Tankless1 a good make and model for this application?

    • ANSWER:
      I would check with a company that manufactures and sells these units. They produce hot water on demand only, and that saves money. In Europe we have used these type of water heaters already 50 years ago, however, in the USA they are fairly new on the market and not cheap, as we found out. When checking the water heater prices, we were disappointed with their high cost, and left things as they were for the time being.
      We live in New York State where the local electric companies are charging outrageous prices for electricity. In time we also like to come up with an energy efficient way of heating our water.

12. QUESTION:
    Baseboard hot water heating system's furnaces haven't been improved in 40 years.?
    Why haven't they been improved to operate the same way as a 'tankless' domestic water heater works?... With all this talk of "Green living" & the price of oil throught the roof. Whats the reason?

    • ANSWER:
      Says who? My new boiler only fires when the wall thermostat asks for heat and the boiler is below it's setpoint. It does not fire when there is no need for heat, even when the furnace cools off. In other words, it does not fire just to keep itself hot like my old boiler.

      Basically that is what a tankless system does, only heats when there is a demand..

13. QUESTION:
    House renovation finishings and selling?
    Our home has recently been reno'd with moderate end finishings (I.e. maple kitchen, granite bathroom countertops, laminate flooring, higher end faucets, fresh paint, tankless hot water heater, new plumbing, electrical, high efficiency furnace already in place, 2 new full bathrooms with jetted tub, stainless steel appliances, etc). Our home inspection report was good, with only a small handful of minor suggestions (no actual deficiencies). Our electrical, plumbing, etc. was all professionally done.

    Our house is older and smaller but has been completely renovated inside and out. We are priced fairly based on the market. Most of the other comparable homes in our price range have little to no upgrades or renovations. Our agent says we need to be the best in our price range, which confuses me because it looks like we are.

    Overall, our house looks good but there are some minor (cosmetic) issues with drywall finishing, paint, moulding finishing, etc. in some areas.

    My question is, would we be expected to list much lower to get an offer if the problems are minor cosmetic issues? Overall, the house looks very nice.

    We had one person say they hated the house, that it was unprofessional, and that it was priced too high. Another also complained about the finishings, so we tried to do some touch ups. We have had some pretty positive feedback too.

    Do finishings really make or break a sale, or are these people simply trying to get us to lower our price? Based on what we've seen, our house is not perfect, but it's fairly priced and a good value (based on comparable listings).

    What makes more sense, to lower the price, or fix the finishings (which it looks like we will have to save up to hire someone to do)? What is the real problem here and how to fix it?

    Thanks!
    As a buyer, would cosmetic finishings stop you from putting an offer on an otherwise good house?

    Also, our kitchen and bathrooms look pretty professional aside from the minor finishing issues.
    Thanks everyone for the feedback. We've been on the market just over 1 month. The market here is slower(buyer's market) , but not at a stand still. We are priced similar to other comparable houses. The house does show well overall, it is spotless, clutter free, and staged. Our house has decent curb appeal overall, but since it's winter and we have 3 ft snowbanks we can't really stage much outside until spring.

    I guess what I'm really asking is, are people being "picky" about a wall finish, trim that needs to be siliconed, or paint because they are not happy with the price, or would that *really* break a sale if the house was otherwise good? I need to figure out if we should drop the price to "compensate" or if it would be smarter to actually fix the things being complained about.
    The reason why I ask is because we obviously would need to save up and hire someone to touch up the areas that need the work. We obviously are not good enough to do it ourselves. I don't want to lower a fair price either if people are still going to complain about the same things, then we are no better off. But would you still buy a house for the "right" price if you didn't like the finishings? Or not?

    • ANSWER:
      How long has your home been on the market? How does the price compare to other listings in the area and recent sales?

      My personal opinion is that renovations with the purpose of selling are not a good idea. It's better to just fix the things that are broken and then list the house in line with comps. You run too much risk of the people looking not having the same tastes as you if you do a lot of cosmetic work.

      Do some research on other homes for sale and recent sales, then decide to lower the price or not. Keep in mind, that the market is very soft right now, so you've got an uphill battle to sell the house no matter what.

14. QUESTION:
    How do I determine dwelling insurance needed on Condo?
    Dwelling coverage only - not personal property or liability coverage. Apartment-style condo. Responsible for drywall inward (each unit has its own central air, furnace and tankless hot water heater within the unit). No lender involved, so I get to set the amount. My research so far has indicated a range from ,000 (way to low if my unit was gutted by a fire) to the full purchase price (which is too high since this includes builder profit as well as my pro rata share of the entire building which would be covered by the Homeowners Association's insurance).

    • ANSWER:
      The homeowners association insurance likely has a ,000 deductible on their policy. So factor THAT in, divided by the number of units, and whatever else you do, be sure to also have "loss assessment" coverage in at LEAST that amount, on your policy.

      If it were me, since I know what the deductible on the master policy is, I'd be sure that my dwelling limit was AT LEAST the amount of the deductible - if there's water damage to your unit only, and you're looking at an amount under the deductible - like ,000, it would stink if the master policy didn't kick in AT ALL, wouldn't it.

      So. Depending on the square footage of your unit, if it's around 1,000 or so, I'd guess that you'd need at least ,000 of dwelling, OR, the deductible of the master policy whichever is MORE. Plus, the loss assessment coverage.

      You should be discussing this with your agent, though.

15. QUESTION:
    What is this "RARE" Home Water Heater System called?
    We get our heat FROM the hot water tank.
    It works like a car radiator.
    The heated water runs through a seperate line (normal tanks don't have this extra line) into a radiator and the water returns to the tank through another port (so there are 2 extra ports that this radiator system uses). A fan blows on the radiator providing the heat for our house.

    Well our tank just went out (leaks and now the pilot won't stay lit) now we are looking to get a new one, either tankless or with a storage tank depending on pricing.

    So does anyone know what "name" these special tanks/setups are called?
    Or what "search words" i could type so i can find one.
    we called companies and they want a fortune. I can install one myself but I am just having trouble finding one that will work for our houses' radiator heat/water setup

    • ANSWER:
      "Integrated Water Heater"
      These units combine both water-heating and space-heating
      functions into one appliance. Most integrated water heaters
      provide large amounts of hot water and feature sealed
      combustion.
      If you need to buy:
      • Both a furnace and a water heater—Compare the cost and
      performance of an integrated heater versus separate units.
      • A high-efficiency boiler—Companion tanks are available to
      store hot water made by the boiler. Companion tank water
      heaters have a very low operating cost and a long life.

16. QUESTION:
    Should I buy a home that needs these repairs or not? what do I do?
    we found a home we like,in escrow, should close n fund soon, but we have not yet signed last final docs. 2003, beautiful landscaped front and back yard. back yard, is big with, very nice patio n slab, nice sprinkler system. house is 2230 sq ft, 4 bed, 3 bath, with loft and office. needs new carpet, paint, throughout. house needs a lot of cleaning as far as scrubbing bathrooms, windows and floors, garage has lots of mice droppings and kitchen n house has some. the inspection was yesterday and there are some things.....leak in attic at spare bathroom, small leak at near water heater vent on top of house, deck in master bed unsafe railing and floor is lil loose, rest were minor such as loose bolts, rusted frame in shower, loose toilets, dryer vent clogged, pipe vent in attic for condensation needs to be cleaned/blow out...they had a spa but it has leaks, and it kept kicking on n off, inspector said we needed to have a someone come look n give us an estimate to see if it can be repairable, may be too much to bother with. oh and noticed lots of big spiders in house that were caught on sticky pads we left out a month ago, and a saw a huge live one in the house, spiders are big and scare me too. but i guess terminex or someone like that can take care of that?
    my feelings are, we love the area/city....it is on a very nice cul de sac, sits near the end of one, school is walking distance for spring n summer ( 1 mi). we would walk our kids/i would drive other wise, house is not open when you come in, like it lacks a family room, formal living lacks dining room. there is just a small living area with electric fire place that is open to kitchen, open to the sliding door that leads to the back yard. so you can see kids playing in yard from kit and living room (good). master bedroom small, but bath area big, one of my child's room is small, plus their bath is super small. we have been looking for months, and cannot find a yard that big with privacy, there are nicer homes that are open and have move in ready feel, but neighbors house are close together and most lots are very small front n back. in the house we are looking at, we have to put in carpet + paint+ fix repairs here. hubby is very picky on yard tho, likes large yards n privacy. we would have to finance the carpet and repairs.

    OR we buy a brand new home that are not yet built will be built this spring, we are renters, so no pressure on moving with in a time frame....prices are at top of our budget, a lil smaller, will lack loft and office,school is on other side of freeway, no park near by to walk to, larger living room but No formal, or formal dining,larger kitchen and eating area, may be able to choose lot, lots nice new features such as.....

    All these premium features come standard in The New House at no extra cost.
    In the kitchen

    • Granite counter-tops
    • Euro-style cabinetry with knobs
    • Whirlpool stainless steel appliances
    - Energy Star dishwasher
    - 30” 5-burner gas range
    - Microwave with built In ventilation
    • 20 gauge stainless steel sinks
    In the bathrooms

    • Integrated sink with cultured marble tops
    • Vanities with built In drawers
    • Tri-view style medicine cabinets
    • Dual flush toilets
    • Separate tub and shower
    Mechanical technology

    • Tankless hot water system
    • Non-corrosive PEX plumbing
    • Optimized heating and air conditioning
    • Home Run electrical harnesses
    • CAT5 and RG6 cable throughout
    Premium trim work

    • Dual pane low-e vinyl windows
    • Paneled window boxes with casings
    • Extra tall 3 1/4” baseboard trim
    • Raised panel interior doors
    Structural enhancements

    • 2" x 6" exterior walls with R-21 insulation
    • Structural sheathing around the entire house
    • Reflective radiant barrier attic sheathing
    • 11” R-30 attic insulation
    • Laser-leveled foundations
    Outside the house

    • Electric garage door opener with remote
    • Vinyl maintenance-free fencing
    • Lanscaped front yard with xeriscape watering
    none of these repairs were disclosed and it is a short sale, bank will not pay for repair, due to they have lost over 100k from sellers not keeping up on it.
    kids tub is small not bathroom, they have double sink as well.
    there is room to "add on" to 2003 home in living room, in future.. out side on side is large to put a extra 20x20.

    • ANSWER:
      You better off buying a new one or something that does not need this much...! Anyway my advise to you as former Rochester, NY investor banks won't give you any financing on this property. The only way you can buy it is with your own cash money and this involve lots of risk. Good luck...!

17. QUESTION:
    Should I buy a home that needs these repairs or not? what do I do?
    we found a home we like,in escrow, should close n fund soon, but we have not yet signed last final docs. 2003, beautiful landscaped front and back yard. back yard, is big with, very nice patio n slab, nice sprinkler system. house is 2230 sq ft, 4 bed, 3 bath, with loft and office. needs new carpet, paint, throughout. house needs a lot of cleaning as far as scrubbing bathrooms, windows and floors, garage has lots of mice droppings and kitchen n house has some. the inspection was yesterday and there are some things.....leak in attic at spare bathroom, small leak at near water heater vent on top of house, deck in master bed unsafe railing and floor is lil loose, rest were minor such as loose bolts, rusted frame in shower, loose toilets, dryer vent clogged, pipe vent in attic for condensation needs to be cleaned/blow out...they had a spa but it has leaks, and it kept kicking on n off, inspector said we needed to have a someone come look n give us an estimate to see if it can be repairable, may be too much to bother with. oh and noticed lots of big spiders in house that were caught on sticky pads we left out a month ago, and a saw a huge live one in the house, spiders are big and scare me too. but i guess terminex or someone like that can take care of that?
    my feelings are, we love the area/city....it is on a very nice cul de sac, sits near the end of one, school is walking distance for spring n summer ( 1 mi). we would walk our kids/i would drive other wise, house is not open when you come in, like it lacks a family room, formal living lacks dining room. there is just a small living area with electric fire place that is open to kitchen, open to the sliding door that leads to the back yard. so you can see kids playing in yard from kit and living room (good). master bedroom small, but bath area big, one of my child's room is small, plus their bath is super small. we have been looking for months, and cannot find a yard that big with privacy, there are nicer homes that are open and have move in ready feel, but neighbors house are close together and most lots are very small front n back. in the house we are looking at, we have to put in carpet + paint+ fix repairs here. hubby is very picky on yard tho, likes large yards n privacy. we would have to finance the carpet and repairs.

    OR we buy a brand new home that are not yet built will be built this spring, we are renters, so no pressure on moving with in a time frame....prices are at top of our budget, a lil smaller, will lack loft and office,school is on other side of freeway, no park near by to walk to, larger living room but No formal, or formal dining,larger kitchen and eating area, may be able to choose lot, lots nice new features such as.....

    All these premium features come standard in The New House at no extra cost.
    In the kitchen

    • Granite counter-tops
    • Euro-style cabinetry with knobs
    • Whirlpool stainless steel appliances
    - Energy Star dishwasher
    - 30” 5-burner gas range
    - Microwave with built In ventilation
    • 20 gauge stainless steel sinks
    In the bathrooms

    • Integrated sink with cultured marble tops
    • Vanities with built In drawers
    • Tri-view style medicine cabinets
    • Dual flush toilets
    • Separate tub and shower
    Mechanical technology

    • Tankless hot water system
    • Non-corrosive PEX plumbing
    • Optimized heating and air conditioning
    • Home Run electrical harnesses
    • CAT5 and RG6 cable throughout
    Premium trim work

    • Dual pane low-e vinyl windows
    • Paneled window boxes with casings
    • Extra tall 3 1/4” baseboard trim
    • Raised panel interior doors
    Structural enhancements

    • 2" x 6" exterior walls with R-21 insulation
    • Structural sheathing around the entire house
    • Reflective radiant barrier attic sheathing
    • 11” R-30 attic insulation
    • Laser-leveled foundations
    Outside the house

    • Electric garage door opener with remote
    • Vinyl maintenance-free fencing
    • Lanscaped front yard with xeriscape watering
    none of these repairs were disclosed and it is a short sale, bank will not pay for repair, due to they have lost over 100k from sellers not keeping up on it.
    kids tub is small not bathroom, they have double sink as well.
    there is room to "add on" to 2003 home in living room, in future.. out side on side is large to put a extra 20x20.

    • ANSWER:
      If the price is right, and if you both agree this place would be great once fixed up, I would not let the problems you saw deter me. However, if the lot size is going to make your husband unhappy, let it go.

      Before moving in, pull up the carpets or pay someone to do it. (We do it ourselves, but it's not fun at all.) Next, either do the work yourself or hire a cleaning service to scrub the place clean. When all that's done, schedule the exterminator for mice and insects/spiders, including blocking points of entry. Let a few days go by for odors to dissipate, then it's time to get in there and paint while repair people come and go, doing what needs doing. Deal with gas and water issues first, since they can be damage-makers or dangerous.