Tankless Water Heater Installation

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Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Plumber or Heating Contrator? Gas Tankless Water Heater Installation?
   I'm seriously considering purchasing one of these soon and I see that both licensed plumbers and heating and cooling pros offer installation.

   I wanted to know whom should I lean towards (even if it may cost more) and what type of questions should I ask in order to ensure I get a real pro?

   • ANSWER:
     Call a reputable plumbing and heating contractor for an on site estimate. Do not accept a price quote over the phone. Ask estimator to bring out brochures of various brands. Prices vary primarily due to warranties and installation materials. Heating and Air contractors install forced air units and employ sheet metal workers to do duct work. Plumbing and Heating contractors install plumbing and also install boilers for heating which involve piping. Check with Better Business Bureau prior to calling for estimates. Ask for references from potential contractor prior to signing work contract. Do not buy extended warranties on heater. Manufacturers warranty do not cover labor costs. The contractors installation warranty should be one year from date of installation.

2. QUESTION:
   Tankless water heater installation ?
   I have installed a ADK tankless water heater in my old 1940's home which still has an old fuse box instead of a breaker box. The water heater does work yet keeps blowing fuses, the slot it is wired to contains two 30 amp fuses for a total of 60 amps. I have recently ordered a AC disconnect to place between the heater and the fuse box awaiting for it to arrive. I have read online that this is a MUST on tankless heater to provide proper amp and volt draws. My question is will this AC disconnect fix my problem or will I have to upgrade to a breaker box.

   • ANSWER:
     You may need a larger wire from the panelboard to the disconnect. Check the data plate or owners manual. You're looking for minimum circuit amps. You use that to determine the minimum size wire. And maximum overcurrent protection is the maximum size breaker needed in the panel. Overfusing wire is a serious fire hazard. The breaker size is determined by the size of the wire it's protecting.

3. QUESTION:
   TANKLESS WATER HEATER INSTALLATION?
   do tank less water heaters need bigger than 3/4" gas line if more than 30 feet away from gas meter?

   • ANSWER:
     If its for a residential home no... 3/4 gas pipe will do.

4. QUESTION:
   Why do I need an installation kit for my Rennai tankless hot water heater?
   I recently ordered a tankless hot water heater (Rennai R35i PLUS). When I picked it up I was informed that I also needed an installation kit that cost half as much as the unit. In my opinion, any required accessory that costs more than 10 percent of any original item should come with the original item and the cost adjusted accordingly. This is a almost a "bait and switch". I might have decided on a different manufacturer if I had known I was going to get hit with a 50% price increase. What does this kit actually do?

   • ANSWER:
     I hope you didnt get a electric unit since this usually requires a service upgrade due to the high amperage

5. QUESTION:
   Tankless water heater quote?
   Can you please share with recent quotes on tankless water heater installation (both parts and labor). Also which models you have and if you are happy with this model.

   If you are a contractor in San Jose area you are welcome to provide me your quote.

   • ANSWER:
     Really can't give a price without knowing how many fixtures will run off it, and distance to fixtures, and will it supply a washing machine or a large tub, Jacuzzi? They come in all different sizes and capacities. Other issues- gas or electric, does the home have electrical capacity for it?

6. QUESTION:
   How much does it cost to install a tankless water heater?
   Thinking of changing our water heater from conventional one to a tankless unit. We are in California. What should we expect to pay for installation of a tankless water heater?

   • ANSWER:
     If your system was piped for a regular water heater, just changing it out for a tankless will not work. A gas fired regular water heater uses about 35,000---40,000 BTU's, compared to about 450,000 BTU's for the tankless. With that in mind, you will need a larger gas supply. Also, the flue pipe has to be replaced with a triple wall stainless steel flue pipe, and that could easily cost more than the new unit. If the water lines are plastic, then you have to replace them with copper or steel, since it clearly states in the manufacturers specs, that no plastic pipe is allowed on a tankless system. Last, the size of your water pipes needs to be checked, as too large of an incoming supply, and the water will pass over the heat exchanger too quickly to get hot. The cost could be anywhere from 00---00, so I would get a professional plumber that is knowledgeable in tankless heater installations, and let them evaluate your system. You could buy a new water heater every year for 10 years, and still it would be cheaper in the long run. Good luck!

7. QUESTION:
   Problems or comments regarding the installation of a residential tankless water heater.?

   • ANSWER:
     i dont know if it will keep up with two people showering at the same time. but they are a pretty good solution to a lot of problems connected with space. With a properly sized unit i dont see any problems. Just tell the folks at the plumbing supply house how you expect to use the unit and they can help to size it.

8. QUESTION:
   Rinnai tankless water heater total cost of ownership - Level of maintenance required?
   I just had an installer do a site survey of my home to get a quote for installation of a Rinnai tankless natural gas water heater. They said that Rinnai requires more maintenance than a tank water heater and can have small filters get blocked. They suggested I subscribe to a routine maintenance program. Has anyone have any experience with blockages of a Rinnai, and if so how frequently?

   • ANSWER:
     I am not a fan of tankless water heaters. It could be that the flow rate could exceed the heating capacity of the device if several uses of hot water were active at the same time. Calculation, using the rated BTU input of the heater, will show how much water can be drawn before the flow rate exceeds the heater's capacity.

9. QUESTION:
   Can I really save money by installing a Renai tankless water heater?
   I have a 4,000 sq foot home with 2 25 gallon water heaters that are hooked up in Tandam. When one blew a few years ago the plumber said just do two, so you will have plenty of water. I was thinking about getting rid of both of them and getting a tankless water heater, but I understand that with purchase and installation, it could run ,000 or more. Is it worth it?

   • ANSWER:
     Although the initial cost is more over the years it will pay for itself. that is if it is gas, electric will cost more over the years.

10. QUESTION:
    Electric Storage water heater to Gas Tankless water heater?
    With all the rebate incentives, I'm thinking about going from a 50 gallon Electric storage water heater (made in 2002) to a natural gas tankless water heater. How much will I expect to save a year? It's just two of us in the household, but we're planning on expanding the family. Our current electric bill is about per month. After all the rebates, the price to upgrade would be about 0 including installation. Is it worth the investment?

    • ANSWER:
      The savings are hard to gauge without knowing how much hot water you intend to use and how much of your present bill goes for making hot water now.

      All other things being equal and based on average costs for natural gas and electricity in the United States, it is typically four (4) times more expensive to make hot water with electricity than with gas.

      So, if of that belongs to hot water, your payback will be 900/(15 x 0.75) or 80 months (6 years, 8 months). Given that your present water heater is 8 years old, you can expect it to be near the end of its typical service life (about 10 years). So a good part of that 0 (figure about 0 to pay someone else) would be required to replace (shortly) it in kind - in reality the payback is much faster based on lifetime cost.

      Now, some things to understand about tankless units:

      a) They require some level of flow to operate. This is adjustable but only within a narrow range. So, if you usually rinse dishes with a trickle of water, this won't work anymore. So there will be some adjustment in your life-style.
      b) When properly adjusted they will provide a continuous amount of hot water without variation. So if you are given to very long showers, this will be nirvana for you.
      c) The savings are in the fact that there is no continuous maintenance of the tank temperature - you are making water only when you need it.
      d) A modern unit made by a reputable firm will have an expected service life far beyond the typical tank-type.

      Because you have electric hot water already, the fact that most (but not all) of these units require electricity to operate is less of a concern. But you might also look into the self-powered systems that do not require electricity - Bosch, for one makes such a unit. This will allow you to have hot water even if there is a power-failure assuming you are on city water, not a pump.

      We have been on a Bosch Aquastar for nearly 15 years now at our summer house - it has performed flawlessly. There are several other equally reputable companies.

11. QUESTION:
    Tankless gas water heater - Cost?
    What is the typical cost of buying the equipment and installation of tankless 'Gas' water heater? For my house we need 2 of them.

    My house is being constructed right now, so I asked my builder to put this instead of regular tank. They are charging 00 for each unit. I think this is too high and payback time will also be long. Am I right?

    Also, any idea about cost of installing hot water circulation system to conserve water. Push of a button will bring the hot water within a minute to the faucet.

    Thanks You!
    Thanks Eric.

    What will be the payback period if I'm replacing tank one with this Tankless Gas Hot water system? If I save a month, then it is more than 10yrs. Seems not worth it. What you guys think.

    • ANSWER:
      You are mixing apples and oranges.
      A tankless gas HWH will cost about 00 installed but there should be a credit from the unit they are not installing, since you paid for it in the cost of the house.
      DO NOT add a circulation loop as this will defeat the gas savings of the Tankless system by causing it to run all the time to heat the circulating water.
      Think not of the ROI think of the endless hot water.

12. QUESTION:
    How much does a Navien tankless water heater list for?
    I dont care how much it will save, or how efficient it is. I cant find a price. I know i have to factor in installation, venting, control, valves, etc. Just looking for the price of the unit.

    • ANSWER:
      Manufacturer suggested retail prices for Navien are as follows:

      CR-180 - 25 (15K to 150K units)
      CR-180A - 75
      CC-180A - 25

      CR-210 - 75 (17K to 175K units)
      CR-210A - 25
      CC-210 - 25

      CR-240 - 25 (17K to 199K units)
      CR-240A - 75
      CC-240 - 75
      CC-240A - 25

      Prices are in US dollars, CR is residential, CC is commercial, A is with the 2 liter holding tank and recirculating pump, no minimum flow rate, plain units have no holding tank and a minimum flow of 0.5 GPM.

13. QUESTION:
    How do I find out the price for a tankless water heater?
    Our tank is old and want to know the price for the tank, how much installation should cost and will it save us money in the long haul. We live in New Jersey

    • ANSWER:
      www.designerplumging.com will give you a general idea what you will pay. Remember that things on line are overpriced.

14. QUESTION:
    excel vent free gas tankless water heater?
    I want to replace our existing water heater with Excel vent free gas tank less water heater.
    please visit link: http://www.amazon.com/Excel-Ventfree-tankless-heater-10001P1/dp/B002ATWR8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1263750806&sr=8-2

    anyone know approximately how much the installation cost and if vent less is a good option to go with? Thank you

    • ANSWER:
      Electrician and plumbers are about per hour. Most have a minimum charge. This one takes 110V so electrical should not be difficult. Plumbing should be standard also. My estimate is that installation would run no more than 0 total. Call around andget estimates. Estimates by phone are free. Or you can do part or all of it yourself.

15. QUESTION:
    Water heater vs. tankless system?
    Our gas water heater is going out and needs to be replaced. Our insurance will cover the water heater and installation, but not the additional costs to bring it up to code, about 0. We can take the cash out and make our own arrangements to get it fixed instead of having it replaced with an equivalent unit. We are thinking about a tankless system.

    I presume we would put it in the water heater closet, and we do want gas, not electric. Most of our plumbing is in the "core" of the house, so none of the hot water lines are more than 20 feet, and only the kitchen sink/dishwasher line is that long. If it matters, our house was built in the early seventies, and the current water heater is about 14 years old.

    If you have replaced yours this way, what do you think? How do the costs of the two systems compare? Is there a difference in your gas bill now? What about maintenance/repair/reliability? Would it still have the same code requirements, or would most of that stuff not apply? Would it still need the new thingamajig to cut off the water if there were a leak? Would it still need a pan installed? (Either way, we're going to have to change out a couple of gas lines.) Are there any brands much better/worse than others? What else do we need to know?

    All words of wisdom appreciated! Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      I only know what my plumber told me about these when we were building our house and considering the tankless heaters. He said the gas was the best/fastest/most reliable and that we would would need one for each bathroom that had a shower/bath and one for the kitchen/laundry. We opted for a large electric hot water tank and do not run out of water, and are very happy with it. (I don't mean a huge tank, just one capable of handling our needs). You might want to check to be sure your needs can be met when you want hot water, and not have to stagger what you wish to do to ensure enough hot water.

16. QUESTION:
    Electric Tankless Water Heaters - are they energy efficient?
    I was told that the electric variety of tankless water heaters suck up a lot more juice than their propane/nat gas counterparts. The reason I am considering electric is that I don't want an extensive installation - I just want to replace my old electric tank heater with a wall-mounted tankless one. Is it worth it?

    • ANSWER:
      Consider that an electric on demand heater will only draw current when in use. A regular water heater has to heat the water and then maintain that temperature. Yes, it's more efficient. The drawbacks to a tankless heater would be that you may not get as much hot water as fast as you want it. I have been looking into these lately myself. I have decided to go with gas because I want to be "off-grid" , however I suggest that you carefully consider your requirements for an electric heater and make sure that you get one that is powerful enough to fulfill your needs. I hate it when the shower won't get quite as hot as I like it. You must consider your climate and your water source. Some of these heaters will only heat water 50 degrees. That means that if your water is 32, after heating will only be 82. Not hot enough for a hot bath. I would get one if I were you, but I would get a good one.
      Don't get some cheap crap.

17. QUESTION:
    Do you need a pressure reduce valve when installing a tankless water heater?
    So here's the situation. My dad replaced our traditional water heater with a tankless water heater. This new tankless heater is rated to support up to 3 major appliances at once. When we purchased the tankless water heater, the guy in plumbing at Home Depot said that when you install a tankless water heater you must restrict the water pressure entering the heater or you could ruin it. My dad went ahead and installed a 50-70psi pressure regulator before the tank inlet, and he also installed another regulator that he said was supposed to reduce knocking. We finished the installation and everything seemed fine. However, we've noticed that when someone is showering and any other major appliance is being used, such as the washer, sink, garden hose, etc. the person in the shower gets scolded with cold water. The unit is supposed to accomodate 3 major appliances at once, so there seems to be a pressure problem. So could the culprit be the regulator valve? Also, me and my father replaced all the plumbing in the house to copper a few years ago, so I don't think it's due to plugged up pipes.
    My dad uses a sump pump, bucket, and distilled vinegar to clean the heater on a regular basis, so it is well maintained.

    • ANSWER:
      if the pressure is 70 psi then that is fine. Those heaters are designed to handle up to 140psi . It's the taps that might have a problem if the pressure is more then 70psi.
      the problem is most probably the gas supply . Instananious hot water heater need a very good supply of gas when they come on , about 5 times more gas than a storage hot water heater .
      if the gas supply is insufficiant than the computer inside the heater will throtal back the water passing through the heater .

      A plumber will be able to tell you what size gas pipes are needed. If you want it done properly and obey the law then you will get a plumber to look at it.

18. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know why it cost so much to install a tankless water heater?
    Have to replace my water heater.
    I got estimates from 2 companies and It will cost about 0 but the same company will charge about 00 for a tankless water heater. I looked up the prices for the units and they only cost about 00 for the mid range Tankless water heaters. so why is the cost of installation double the cost of the unit? while the cost of installing a traditional hater heater is only about 0. I know it only takes a few hours to do either?
    could it be because they take for granted that I will get about 00 back on my tax return next year for using a tankless system that they think they should be able to over charge? or is there a reason I am missing here?
    It is a gas unit.

    • ANSWER:
      tank less htrs.cost more but the price your saying 2500 I would to believe to be with the unit,(gas or electric you didn't mention),gas htrs have to be vented outside,depending on where your htr is as to the cost of the vent pipe which is very high priced.your gas likely will have to be increased in size min 3/4 inch gas line for a max of 14 feet otherwise 1 inch line.A normal unit fires at 250,000 btus that lots of gas.lime build up is a problem which needs to be cleaned once a year.(your old htrs build up lime also) s/b cleaned.the plumber who installs the heater is responsible for the labor for a year and their not going to leave that not figured in.

19. QUESTION:
    Are there any Natural Gas Tankless Water Heaters that don't require a Stainless Steel Exhaust?
    I need to replace my water heater and am considering a tankless model. My greatest concern is that they all require special all-stainless steel exhaust ventilation. Not only is this impractical for my installation environment, but it suggests that the appliance generates so much waste heat that it's not so energy efficient after all. Are there any natural gas tankless water heaters that can use an existing galvanized steel exhaust vent?

    • ANSWER:
      Actually, it's because they are so efficient that you need stainless.
      Bear with me.
      All exhaust gases contain some amount of water and some acidic properties.
      Most exhaust gases are so hot that they will travel through a normal flue and not condense until they reach the outside.
      Exhaust gases from a tankless will condense on a flue pipe, depositing acid which will eat through galvanized steel. It will also eat concrete, mortar and brick, so you can't send it up a chimney either.

      Of course, you can move the water heater to an exterior wall and vent it through the wall. That way, you only need a few pieces.
      Or get an outside (no venting required) model. I've seen them advertised as "good to -30deg. f.".

20. QUESTION:
    How do I hold my water heater manufacturer and installer accountable for damage?
    One year ago today, I bought a tankless water heater recommended by a local water heater sales/installation company, and had them do the installation. Yesterday, we came downstairs to see water pouring out of it, all over the floor. I called them up, and they said turn off the water, and we'll come out tomorrow. I tried and tried to get them to come out righ then, but they said they didn't have anyone available. They did confirm that I was still under full warranty, and that they wouldn't charge me for the replacement of the unit. I did what they said, and now they are here doing the replacement, but when I showed them that in the next room I could hear water sloshing under the laminate floor (floor sits on slab), he just said "hm, yeah", and went back to working on the replacement. I feel like they should pay to have the floor taken up dried and replaced, as I'm now afraid of mold, but they don't seem interested in doing anything about it. I called their service manager and told him the installer only seems to be interested in doing the bare minimum, and that I'm not happy, but I don't know how far they are obligated to go to make things right. Does anyone know the answer? Has anyone dealt with this before and or have any advice?

    Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      The fact that this thing worked for 1 year is gonna make it next to impossible to hold anyone liable for subsequent damage. They fulfilled their obligation by honoring the warranty. The rest is exactly what you should have home owners insurance for. Depending on the size of the room and the size of the insurance deductible, It might be better to eat the cost. Check with your insurance agent and claims adjuster. If they think the other parties are liable, then it is up to them to fix your floor and then go after the other parties on your behalf.

21. QUESTION:
    Installing a Tankless Hot Water Heater - Massachusetts?
    Our water heater was over 12 years old and it's kaput (leaking from corrosion).

    I'd like to replace it with an electric tankless hot water heater... can anyone give me a guesstimate as to how much it should cost us for the unit and installation?

    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Just as a ball park guess it will be about 0.00 to about 00.00 depending on the availability of electricity. If you have an electrical panel in the 200 amp area you might be ok if it is a small house. Usage will be a big factor as the more hot water you need, the bigger the tankless heater, thus the bigger the electrical load. In most instances i have seen, you will probably need modifications to your electrical service and the installation of a sub-panel or mini-panel. If this is required, add about 0.00. I know the numbers seem high, but you will make it back over the next few years. Besides, you get a tax credit of 30% (up to 00.00) from the federal government and perhaps a bit more from your state and local utility provider.

      If electricity is your source for power, consider locating smaller tankless units at fixtures located more than 30 feet from the water heater so you can minimize hot water lag and not waste water. It is much easier to run a circuit to these locations as opposed to a gas pipe for a gas tankless system.

      You can check my sources for more information related to preparing for the installation of a tankless system;Gas or Electric.

22. QUESTION:
    Did the installer goof by lighting the "gas pressure check port" on my parents' tankless gas water heater?
    My parents had a tankless gas water heater installed. Not being present during installation, I noticed later that the gas pressure check port was 'lit', as if it was a pilot light. This port is a short tube that sticks out to the left of the unit's gas supply valve that is situated between the gas regulator and the unit's burners. Is this ok, or should there be some type of plug over the end of this port?
    This unit does have a standing pilot, THAT I checked in the manual. What I can't find is what should be done with this pressure check port. Obviously, there would be gas escaping it, but the only thing the manual says is about opening a screw on the opposite side of the port to check the pressure. The kicker here is that there is no obvious screw, and I can't find it in the diagrams provided either.
    This unit does have a standing pilot, THAT I checked in the manual. What I can't find is what should be done with this pressure check port. Obviously, there would be gas escaping it, but the only thing the manual says is about opening a screw on the opposite side of the port to check the pressure. The kicker here is that there is no obvious screw, and I can't find it in the diagrams provided either.

    • ANSWER:
      Should have an 1/8" plug in it. Sounds like the installer checked gas pressure, as he should, but failed to put the plug back in the test port. I'd either find / get a plug and plug the port, or, better yet, shut gas off to the entire unit, and have the installer do it. The amount of gas leaking from the port sounds minimal, but still creates a hazard. If there's ANY gas leaking out anywhere, the installer should have noticed and corrected before leaving.

23. QUESTION:
    I need a new water heater.. but this is too much?
    My water heater has a leak right behind the thermostat/gas valve. Also there was some rust coming thru the water a few months ago, so I think it's time for a new one.

    Apparently, I have a gas water heater with direct vent. I'm being told by home depot that it'll cost 0 for the water heater with 0 installation, etc. I don't even see this water heater in their system! What are my options? I think they might be trying to take me for a ride. If I'm gonna pay this much, I'd rather go with something new and economical like a tankless water heater. Any suggestions? Advice about this quote?

    Thanks in advance!
    Yes the vent is already there. Everything is screws and bolts (except for the soldered water lines). I will definitely check around. Might go with an electric.
    Thanks everyone gets a thumbs up b/c they all were good answers. Deciding on buying a regular gas heater and having a friend help. Should cost me 0 for a 50G.

    • ANSWER:
      I was in your exact same situation two years ago. I went with the Home Depot option. The water heater performs fine, but I do have regrets.

      Installation
      My first regret was trusting Home Depot. You are 100% right to suspect the 0 installation cost. Every house is different, but in mine it took the guy a little over 30min to install. So on an hourly rate basis, that's pretty pricey. If you have a drain nearby, you can move the old tank out when it's empy, which is easy to do if you have a dolly. The new one is of course empty, so it's not too hard to move. There are a couple "nice to know" things such as putting in wedges to ensure the new heater doesn't move on a sloped floor... So it might be good to get someone with experience if you've not installed one before. But check out a handyman. Get one with references, and also check him out on BBB.org. Bet you can cut the installation price significantly over what Home Depot charges.

      Water Heater
      Second point is on the water heater it's self. I got the Home Depot top of the line, and didn't research it much myself. Big mistake. The energy utilization sticker indicated it was a mid-grade efficiency model. I had thought for top price, I'd get a top model. Bad assumption.
      I also priced a tankless hot water heater. Thing about those is that there are few brands, they take regular maintenance, and they are expensive to repair since not as many plumbers are trained to work on them.
      I also priced a solar water heater. Ridiculously expensive.
      The traditional tank system is relatively cheap, and the technology is very well known and reliable.

      So in summary, research the water heater yourself, get one you are happy with. Then get an experienced neighbor or handyman to price the install for you. Compare that to what Home Depot is telling you before you decide.

24. QUESTION:
    Do you have a "tankless" water heater? If so, how do you like it?
    Our current water heater is not quite sufficient for my husband & me, and is nearing the end of it's life. We became interested in a "tankless" (on-demand) water heating system - which heats water only when you turn the hot water spiggot on. Our primary concern at this point, if it saves as much and can work as well as is advertised (I know - don't believe advertisements, at least not completely), is the initial cost of one. Supposedly, it will pay for itself within the first year or so of use & the savings in utilities... I was wanting to know what other people's personal experiences with these systems are...
    So I was wondering if you have one, how do you like it?
    Is it efficient for your uses?
    Have you noticed a significant difference (for the better, I hope) in your utility bills since it's installation?
    What brand system are you using?
    Has it paid for itself in the long-run for you personally?
    Any personal experiences with this 'on-demand' or 'tankless' water heating system would be greatly appreciated!

    • ANSWER:
      A tankless WILL NOT pay for itself based on 1st year energy savings. Not even close. Consumer Reports did a study of this and you can see the results in their Ooctober 08 isssue. There are some savings, yes, but these systems can be expensive to install and that's why it takes so long to recoup the costs (if you ever do). There are other good reasons to install these systems, however, including the "unlimited" amount of hot water that can get out of one; if you have a large soaking bathtub, for example, a tankless heater can fill it as hot as you want (I could never accomplish that with the standard tank at a condo I once rented). Here are some more thoughts on tankless:

      http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,213064,00.html

      Bear in mind that this techology is evolving, and as the units become more available they may come down in price.

25. QUESTION:
    What's the verdict on tankless water heaters?
    Some people rave about them. Some people say they were given a piece of junk. Consumer reports doesn't seem to recommend them. Some energy efficiency folks and green HVAC people recommend them, and others don't.

    I get that installation cost is up-front a bit pricey. But is the cost of the units coming down? Do they really save? How about in a house of 2? Is tankless a better option?

    • ANSWER:
      I built a home in 1994 and installed three of them. I have since had to replace/repair all three and will not replace them again. One went out in '02 and the others quit in '07. I installed one in my daughter's home in '98 and it's still going. Just my opinion.

26. QUESTION:
    Upgrading gas water heater; need best option for 5 people: larger tank, tankless, hybrid or heat pump type?
    Our family consists of two adults and three children. Our 40-gal gas water heater doesn't cut it.
    Between the options of getting a bigger tank, going tankless, buying a hybrid or getting a heat-pump type, which is my best choice for upgrading, considering our heavy use/flow rate, the cost for equipment and installation, recovery rate, thermal efficiency and yearly operating cost?

    • ANSWER:
      Get a quote for a gas Tank less water heater turnkey fully installed and that will most likely cure your curiosity on tank less hot water heater. I’d go with just a larger gas hot water heater. Tank less water heater doesn’t add that much to a house during construction but a retro fit done properly can really get costly. I’ve never used a tank less water heater but I have checked pricing on properly installed tank less. Retro install of an electric is crazy. A moderate sized home may have a 200 to 250 amp service for the entire home a good electric tank less may require 150 to 175 amp service requiring the need for a complete new / second service brought to the house just for the electric tank less water heater. Gas tank less most often requires larger gas service line installed and an elaborate exhaust system installed as well to vent the massive heat produced by the gas tank less water heater. The price of the tank less water heater on the shelf is just a small portion of the total cost of a retro fit into an existing home.

27. QUESTION:
    Tankless water heaters?
    If you have one: Any regrets? (Do you always have hot water/does it give you problems?) Has it resulted in a measurable reduction in your bills? Is a DIY install reasonable? If not, was installation expensive?

    Thank you very much for any info you can provide
    Seriously, Postal? Thanks, sweetie
    I really appreciate that, Jamus
    (((Postal)))
    Maybe I'll just go ahead and join, (((Tim)) Lol!

    • ANSWER:
      We've had 2 of them. The first one - a bosch aquastar 125b was not big enough for our family (5 person household). Yes, we had unlimited hot water, but if anyone TOUCHED another hot water tap while someone was in the shower, you knew it! (brrrrrrrrr!) That one we had for 6 years - we learned to work around that minor inconvenience - until the water valve corroded & it was cheaper to replace the whole unit with the 0. tax credit - it basically paid for the upgrade. We went with another Aquastar - this one is at least twice the size and have had no problems with it keeping up on the hot water at multiple taps at the same time - be SURE you check into that before deciding on a model for your house (bigger IS better!) That being said, yes they are more $$ than a tank model to purchase, so take that into consideration when calculating how much you save in gas. Secondly, we didn't notice a dramatic reduction in our gas bill since switching to tankless, BUT the fact that you never run out of hot water kind of makes up for it. Also - my husband said they may not run 24/7 to keep a tank of hot water hot, but when they DO run, they use more gas at that time to heat up the water at that particular moment so it probably works out to where you are saving some money or it's about even all things considered. We installed ours ourselves - hub's a contractor and has worked with copper piping, etc. before so it was easy for him. I guess it depends on your skill level & comfort level working with gas and water pipes. Hope that helps!

28. QUESTION:
    How much should it cost to have a tankless hot water heater installed?
    For a family of three in a house in Pittsburgh. We are being quoted 00-00, but the units themselves seem to be about 00. Are the installation costs really that high?
    By the way. We are considering a gas unit to replace an existing tank gas unit. The contractor said our existing 1in. gas lines should be OK, but the current venting would be inadequate. The unit would go next to an exterior wall so all that would be needed would be to punch a hole and add the venting.
    John,

    I'm not opposed to spending that much if that is what it costs, I just want to make sure that they are not overcharging. Our existing 16 year old tank heater developed a leak this morning. We called a plumber and the leak is under control for now, but we need a new unit within the next few days. We got the quote from the plumber we called about the leak. My main concern is that we need to make a decision quickly and don't have the time to go out and get a bunch of quotes first.

    • ANSWER:
      i was just checking on the possibility of installing a tankless at my house. i don't have gas service so i was restricted to electric. i found that i would have to put new wiring to my panel. it's not the case for me but you may also have to upgrade your panel and service to 200 amp min. so 00-4000 to install a large electric tankless is probably about right if your existing panel and service are inadequate. if your quote is for a gas unit installed where your existing gas fired tank unit is already installed the big cost would have to be in upgrading your vent

29. QUESTION:
    Tankless water heaters, point of use vs whole house, I live in small condo, which do I need?
    I want to replace my water heater and need to know the difference between a "Point of Use" vs "Whole House". The water heater I have now is compact in size, possibly 30 gallon tank, the dimensions are about 30" tall x 22" diameter. I have a small condominium and the location of the tank is situated between the kitchen and bathroom. From the tank to the kitchen faucet is approx. 12 feet, and 14 feet from tank to bath tub bathroom sink is "butted" up to the closet water tank is in so that is less than 4 feet.
    I live in South Florida, Second floor of a condo so the water temp (when first turned on) has never been real cold. (like up it is up in the North.)
    Someone has offered me an "American ADK-1" tank-less water heater but I need to be sure this will suffice as the installation will cost more than the appliance.

    Thank you

    • ANSWER:
      The ADK-1 tankless water heater is rated to supply enough hot water for a typical shower, but it is unlikely that it would be able to maintain temperature if you want to fill a bath tub. Also, the ADK-1 requires a dedicated 240 volt 60 amp circuit from your electrical panel. The existing circuit for your tank water heater is likely a maximum 240 volt 30 amp, so a new circuit will need to be installed. Given that you live in a condo, your electrical service may not be rated for the increased demand of a tankless heater. A load calculation on your service would need to be done to determine if a tankless system can even be installed.

      If you have the space, you may be better off getting a larger tank.

30. QUESTION:
    What is the cost of installing a tankless water heating system in my home?
    I want to know the cost of the heater, but also the overall installation cost too. And any good name brands??

    • ANSWER:
      My advice is don't do it.

31. QUESTION:
    Are there any good webpages for installation of proper exhaust ventilation from natural gas hot water heaters?
    I am referring to gas hot water heaters with tanks and not the tankless models.

    • ANSWER:
      There are different types of vented gas water heaters. You should follow the manufactures instructions for your particular heater. If you don't have the instructions that should come with the heater. Go to the web site for the manufacturer and download it.

32. QUESTION:
    ballpark cost for tankless waterheater installation in houston, tx?
    we already have 3/4" gas and water lines on that wall and a vent from the tank waterheater we want to replace. i'd like an idea of cost for everything except the heater itself, i've got an idea on the cost of that. also, how about the cost for the permit? (one plumber told us it was 0 and i think he was lying)

    thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      a tankless water heater has to be install by a pro. due to the location and the 220 electricall it needs to operate and also a pro . plumber. so you have to look at the cost of the tankless unit and the cost of having a plumber and a electrcion plus parts n labor

33. QUESTION:
    How much should I expect to pay for 1.25-inch black iron pipe?
    I'm installing a Noritz tankless water heater with a heat output of 200k BTU/hr. Tables in the water heater's installation manual say I'll need to supply at least 200 cubic feet per hour of natural gas. A pipe run of about 155 feet will be required from the gas meter to the new water heater, and the tables indicate that I'll need 1.25-inch pipe for a 155-foot run capable of supplying 200 cubic feet per hour. Best price I've found so far is /ft for 1.25-inch iron pipe. Does all this sound reasonable, or am I mis-reading the tables and oversizing the pipe? The current pipe that delivers gas from the meter to the water heater's location is 3/4-inch, and it was adequate for a 55k BTU tanked heater. Is the /ft price as low as I'm going to find for 1.25-inch iron pipe, or where might I find lower prices? Thanks for your help!

    • ANSWER:
      My price for that size pipe is about per foot including the permit and pressure test so I would expect that you are getting a very good price.
      According to my tables you are correct at 0.3 inch water column.

      You might also check into using your 3/4 pipe and run it in a high pressure system with a regulator at the supply end. My tables suggest that 1 psi would give you over 500 cu feet per hour at that length. Your local fuel gas code may not permit this but it a common way to deal with the problem around here.

34. QUESTION:
    Need help choosing water heater?
    Elec. is 1 + 5 installation + 2 permit (yes, we actually need permission to have hot water in Hernando County, Florida!!)

    Gas -- no idea

    Tankless/on-demand: 4 for small ones (is that one for each and every water faucet in the house)? Or 0 for whole unit (does that heat all faucets in house?

    Is installation less for tankless??

    Been w/o hot water for a week.
    Clueless in Florida
    Correction: Elec. WH is 9 to install. Is tankless cheaper to install?

    • ANSWER:
      Permit is to insure installation is correct, many people attempt to save money by doing it themselves and do not have the skills to do it. A whole house tank less heats the entire house but the price ranges from 0. to 0. The installation of a tank less would not necessarily be less as the plumbing is essentially the same as a tank type heater. Your choice here is gas or electric and the units do not vary greatly in price but use the energy source that exists unless changing it will be cheaper.

35. QUESTION:
    Plumbing pipe sizes?
    I just acquired a tankless water heater to replace a small, infrequently used tank heater. Here's the question:

    The current installation has 3/4 copper in and out of the old heater. The new one has 1/2 in and out. I know there's no issue with reducing the diameter going into the heater. Am I alright with bringing it back to 3/4 to hook back into the existing pipes?

    • ANSWER:
      I wouldn't worry about it. If it's infrequently used, it shouldn't be a problem.

36. QUESTION:
    How much more do on-demand water heaters cost?
    Compared to a standard water heater, how much higher is the cost (unit + installation) for a demand (a.k.a. tankless; a.k.a on-demand) water heater?

    I assume that the answer is as simple as 50% more or twice as much?

    But if the specifics matter I am replacing a 50 gal standard unit for a 2 bedroom Condo. I'd like to get a single tankless unit to go in the same location as the old unit, which is in a big closet in one bathroom, and it's within 5 or 6 feet of all three sinks and both showers.
    I should add that I'm motivated by the extra storage space in my little condo as much as by potential savings. I just want to know what this extra closet will cost me.
    I'm going from electric to electric.

    I have gas heat, but suspect running a gas line to the water heater closet would be difficult.

    • ANSWER:
      Concerne, Basically without going into a lot of detail, They are very expensive and not worth it! Don't get one. You're taking your chances with those things. They're just a gimmick. It may or may not even work very well for you. They are a lot more expensive to install than a standard water heater. Just get an old, standard tank-type but, get a good one so it will last. Tankless water heaters are very expensive to install because you need a 220 amp power supply that you probably don't have and they also have to be vented to the outside. Plus, those new tankless water heater units are just plaine expensive only because they are new technology. They haven't caught on & for good reason.

37. QUESTION:
    Portable Generator Tranfer Switch... PLEASE HELP!!?
    ok.. so i was looking into a Reliance 6 circuit manual transfer switch which has a max watts output of 7,500 watts. I also have a Coleman Powermate 6,500 watt generator. as you can see, there's a problem.. do you think it would be safe to proceed with the installation?

    Things on the transfer switch...

    Breaker A - Furnace (3/4 HP)
    Breaker B - Sump Pump
    Breaker C+D - Well Pump
    Breaker E - Fridge
    Breaker F - Tankless hot water heater

    Quick question about the well + water heater. I have a purifying system that needs to be pluged in to be filtered. Is this mandatory for the well to operate? please get back to me!!

    • ANSWER:
      I installed a 12 circuit 60A transfer panel for connection to a 5kW generator. It included items you mentioned plus microwave and toaster ovens, lights, computer, television, etc. The 6 circuit switch will greatly limit what you can connect and seldom if ever require the full power from your generator. You will be wasting capacity.

      The water treatment system often operates without power until it regenerates. At that point water will flush backwards through the system to clean it out. There is a built in timer that will cause this to happen usually overnight. For a short outage you likely won't have a problem. However if you are without power for many days you might want to manually set the filter to regenerate.

      One exception to this is a UV light to get rid of bacteria. Those will need power any time the pump is running to keep the light turned on.