Gas Hot Water Heater Manufacturers

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Is there a hot water heater manufacturer whose product holds up longer & is more maintenance free than others
   Need to find a gas hot water heater that is resistant to rust.

   • ANSWER:
     There is a heater called the "Marathon". It is guaranteed forever. It has a glass tank & extra insulation. I don't know how widely available they are. You can learn a little bit about them here - http://www.electric.seviervilletn.org/

2. QUESTION:
   Where can I find a replacement pilot tube for my nat gas hot water heater?
   I noticed the heater was out this morning and tried to relight and couldn't. Pulled out the burner assembly and found that the pilot tube was broken. I'd rather not have to call the utility company but I don't know where I can find a replacement pilot tube. Do I have to order one from the manufacturer? Can I find one at a local home improvement store? Internet site?

   • ANSWER:
     nearly any well stocked hardware store will stock that part. Be sure to bring the broken one along to compare.

3. QUESTION:
   Gas water heater cycling but no hot water!?
   The water heater is igniting, running for a few seconds, then shutting right back off. Over and over and over again. NO hot water at all left in the tank, though it was hot earlier today.

   Hubby says he 'thought' it's been cycling more frequently lately (I never noticed) ... any chance this could be just a dirt/dust/dog hair issue, and a DIY fix? If so, how do I approach it or what should I try?

   I am NOT paying holiday-rate for a repairman (if I could even get one) to come out today!

   Manufacturer: A.O. Smith
   Model: GPSH 50 101

   Thanks SO much to anyone who can help me!

   • ANSWER:
     Hi Sombra,

     Here is the link to AO Smith's manuals, and service bulletins - http://www.hotwater.com/lit/service.html

     I'd start with the "General" - "Service Information Guide" - its about the 4th one down in the "Miscellaneous" section, at the top of the site page. It shows you how to clean the vents that allow air into the combustion chamber, and other general service tips.

     I'd start with a good cleaning. It's very possible, the filter that allows air into the combustion chamber (LDO-Lint, Dust, Oil) is clogged, and not allowing enough fresh air into the chamber. This would cause a lot of cycling, and as it became more clogged, eventually would not allow enough fresh air into the chamber to let it continue to run - meaning it would cut off almost immediately after igniting, as it used up the combustible air. The thermostat would still be telling it to keep running tho, so it would keep trying to cycle. Just pull the filter(s) out of the bottom of the water heater, and give them a good cleaning, then replace, and see if that took care of the problem. This would be my first item to check, and it's also the least expensive, hehehe.

     I doubt very seriously the problem is the thermocouple. Typically, when a thermocouple goes out, it shuts off the gas regulator altogether. If your water heater has the auto ignition instead of a pilot light, then you will hear it 'click' as it tries to ignite the flame - if this went bad, you'd hear a continuous clicking, as it tried to light the flame.

     Another possible cause, is the gas regulator itself - most gas regulators are silver in color, and have the temperature setting knob, and the "Off - On - Pilot" knob. This part is often the most expensive to replace, but it is something that most DIY'ers could do themselves. You'll want a good thread sealant, a "pipe dope" for gas lines, or teflon tape for gas (yellow colored, as opposed to white tape for water lines). If you have any doubts about your ability to replace this safely and properly, call in a tech.

     You can also find service providers, or order parts from that site.

     Since this is a problem that came on gradually, and caused the water heater to cycle more frequently over time, again, my first suspicion would be the LDO filter(s) at the bottom of the water heater. There will be at least one filter, possibly two. They look very much like a grease trap/filter you'd see on a range hood over a cook stove - a wire mesh type of filter.

     Good Luck!

4. QUESTION:
   Can someone in the plumbing field answer this Hot Water Heater Question?
   I had a new Whirlpool 40 gal. Gas Water Heater installed. From "day one" it has leaked water from the relief valve, down a copper pipe from the top to near the floor. About 6 to 8 ounces of water are displaced, usually after it reheats up again. The installer replaced the relief valve with a new one, and lowered the temperature to 120 degrees, was 130. However, the same problem exists. The company of the installer has now told me I need an "expansion tank" added, at the tune of 0 (labor included) For now I say BS and have placed a bowl under the pipe, emptying it about two times a day. Am I being taken here or can this be legitimate? They told me they even discussed it with the manufacturer. 0 is half of what I paid for the original tank and labor. Your advice would be appreciated.

   • ANSWER:
     I would bet that you have a pressure regulator on your incoming water line. That closes the system, and does not allow water to flow back out into the water main. When the water heater fills with cold water, like after you take a shower, it heats that cold water which then expands. In a closed system, it has nowhere else to go, other than out the relief valve. You almost certainly need an expansion tank.

     The good news is that you should be able to get one installed for less than the price you mentioned. They cost around . and are not difficult to install. They go on the cold side near the water heater.

     And to whoever mentioned plugging the relief valve, take a gander at:

     http://www.waterheaterblast.com

     It's one of the dumbest things you could do.

5. QUESTION:
   Converting a gas stove to LP?
   We have a new stove that is for natural gas, but has the option to convert to propane, which is what we have.
   Presently our tank feeds the dryer, hot water heater and stove with a 3/8" line coming into the house, provided by the propane supplier.
   That seems inadequate as the stove manufacturer is recommending a 1/2" line, with a disclaimer that the propane provider can determine the size.
   With our old stove, you just changed over with a conversion piece but the new one has directions for converting the top burners, the oven burners and the broiler. I want to be sure I'm reading this correctly and all 3 burners need to be converted.
   Just looking for a little corroberation for anyone with knowledge of these new-fangled stoves.

   • ANSWER:
     You are reading the directions correctly. The orifices that you need should be fastened to the stove somewhere (usually in the back at the bottom) and the NG orifices should be stored there after the conversion just in case it needs to be converted back in the future. Believe me this happens often and most of the time the orifices are missing and it takes a while to order them from the factory if they are even available anymore.

     The 3/8" line should be adequate for LP gas since LP is under a higher pressure than NG.

     The directions are pretty much self explanatory and not too difficult to follow. It can be tricky retrieving the orifices from the top burners and keeping the LP orifices from falling down through. I have found using electrical tape to make the orifices a "force" fit into the socket a help in doing this.

     Good luck in your conversion and if you require assistance just click on my name and contact me and I will be glad to help.

6. QUESTION:
   My bath water stays cold?
   This is a very frustrating thing. I moved into this house about 3 months ago, and since then, I haven't taken a warm shower on back to back days.

   Basically I turn on the water, it's freezing cold, I twist the knob to the hot side... yet still the water is cold. Maybe 10% of the time the water would turn hot after about 5 minutes. I believe the water heater is gas, but honestly... gas should not take that long to heat the water.. after all, my older house had a gas heater and it heated the water in a matter of seconds.

   The manufacturer of all the showers/baths in the house is Moen (if that helps). And this problem persists in all of the baths and showers.

   ohhh also the sinks tend to do this too.

   And this is definetly because I haven't paid the bills ahahaha.

   • ANSWER:
     have you checked the thermostat on the water heater? try that, the house I rent is older as well and we had the same problem at first